How effective are radiation barriers in the central and upper Midwest at reducing heating and cooling demands with R-30 or better attic insulation already installed and no attic ducts?
If I paint the underside of a concrete roof deck, will the IRCC reduce the heat transfer to the interior of the building? The concrete roof deck is exposed to the interior of the building and has a single-ply roofing material on the outside. I’m not sure how to get the 1″ air gap – unless the air gap can be part of the interior conditioned space.
I’m obtaining quotes to air seal and insulate the attic in my 50+ year old home. It was recommended to me that additional fiberglass batting be installed over the existing batting to increase the R-Value. There is an air handling unit and air ducts in the attic. Will it help to add reflective insulation or radiant barrier insulation to fiberglass batting? The most confined space in the attic will have blown-in insulation. Can reflective insulation or a radiant barrier be added over blown-in insulation, be it fiberglass or cellulose? I live in Illinois and like many others in the Midwest, dealt with the polar vortex, icicles and higher utility bills. Thanks for considering my question.
I recently moved into a home and it already has the painted radiant barrier. Would it be good to add the foil radiant barrier as well since the AC unit seems to run excessively? Or should I do something else?
I have a walk-up attic with one side of the roof that faces nearly due South. In the summer, the heat radiates into the bedrooms so much that the ACs can barely overcome the heat buildup. I think I could install reflective panels myself, but have a question. I would install the reflective tech along the roof joists. Currently there is no insulation at all between the joists. There are a few electrical junction boxes that would end up inside the reflective space. Would this prevent the install of reflective tech? Would this create a fire danger?
Hi, I’m getting ready to have a new roof installed on our 44-year-old house. I’m considering having our roofer install radiant barrier OSB sheathing, but I have a couple of questions. I live in Pleasanton, California, between the San Francisco Bay and the Central Valley. We have quite a few 100-degree days each summer and would like to make our house more energy efficient. My first question is, is my climate a good place to have a radiant barrier? My second questions is, would the radiant barrier OSB be effective if it’s installed on top of the existing skip sheathing? We have two roofing companies bidding and one says that they remove the skip sheathing, which sounds correct to me, while the other says that they will leave the skip sheathing on?
I would appreciate your guidance in determining whether a radiant barrier installation is necessary or likely to assist in significantly reducing home energy usage in the attic of a 15-year-old, two-story home that already has an insulated attic? Basically, is it worth spending the money to install this based upon future electricity bill savings? Also, in the event that I chose to do this myself, are building permits required for the installation of the radiant barrier and/or an attic fan?
I am interested in a foil insulation for a sauna. What is the best foil insulation for a sauna? The sauna will be located in an interior room of my home.
Can you tell me anything regarding the radiant barrier use under concrete? Some of your members manufacture under concrete insulation in varying forms – some with a radiant barrier some without. Some say you can’t install a radiant barrier under concrete – some say you can. Aside from installing it correctly so the aluminum is not destroyed by the concrete — does a radiant layer still work under concrete?
Please provide me with references demonstrated via hard science and research supporting an air space. If possible, I’d like to know if science exists to support any specific space depth for a given IR wavelength.