I was told that color would not make much difference in the heating effect of a black plastic flower pot because the sides of the pot are nearly vertical. My understanding is that holding other things constant, a lighter color would be more effective in reducing heat buildup than a darker color. The question sounds a bit wonky, I know, it came up in a gardening group run by university extension agents, normally pretty well-educated people, so I am reluctant to butt heads without a bit more information.
We have a vinyl garage door that faces due East and the garage really heats up in the warmer months because of this orientation. The R-Value of door is maybe R-3 +/- according to the manufacturer. I considered adding more insulation on the interior of the door, but that does nothing to reduce the exterior heat input. Would a reflective vinyl approved paint on the exterior of the door help reduce heat absorption in your opinion/experience? Thank you for your time and thoughts on this challenge.
I plan to build a climate-controlled garage in North Texas, near the Red river. I want to achieve R-30 in the walls and R-40 in the ceiling. The HVAC air handler and all ducts will be within the climate-controlled space. Exterior walls and roof will be finished with steel sheet panels.
1. Will it be effective to sheath the building with foil-faced OSB (foil on the outside), then place 2 x 4 stringers flat on the outside, followed by the steel sheet on top of the stringers; achieving a 1-1/2-inch air space between siding and sheathing? Is there benefit to increasing the air gap from 1-1/2 to 3 inches?
2. Is there than any negative affect from applying at least 5 inches of open cell spray foam to the inside?
3. Radiant barrier house wrap; what and where? To my knowledge, Tyvek is not a radiant barrier. The foil faced OSB is a radiant barrier, do you recommend redundant radiant barriers? If so, should there be a separate air gap for each barrier? My understanding is that placing anything in the air gap between the inside roof surface and the reflective radiant barrier is counterproductive.
I am a writer and am researching radiant barriers and building codes–specifically, which codes have incorporated radiant barriers as part of a prescriptive compliance path. I am aware of California’s Title 24, but am having trouble efficiently researching what other states or municipalities have similar language.
Someone mentioned Honolulu and Florida. I did find something about a “radiant barrier credit” in the Honolulu code, but am afraid I don’t understand what that means. I also found something from Florida’s 2007 code, but don’t know if that is still in effect.
Can you offer some guidance or point me to someone who can?
Can you explain the following statement in California’s Title 24? “The Title 24 prescriptive compliance approach requires a radiant barrier in climate zones with significant cooling loads (zones 2-15). The performance approach does not require a radiant barrier in any climate zone.”
I am writing to inquire about a conflict that has arisen in the re-roofing project of my home. A contractor has replaced radiant barrier decking in some areas with regular decking. We both are hesitant to remove the shingles to replace the decking with the correct product, but are unsure if there is an appropriate DOE/ASTM approved solution? Paint has been brought up, but that after reading the literature on your website I see that is not an effective solution.
I am planning on installing a radiant barrier in my attic and garage door. I read all over that radiant barriers and reflective insulation “must always be installed in the presence of an air space.” However, I have a few questions regarding that air space:
1. How big does the air space have to be?
2. Do you need air space on both sides or only one side (if only one side, which side is best)?
3. For the garage door, can I install insulation first (directly against the aluminum garage) and then attach the radiant barrier to the insulation? Again, I think this relates back to airspace, does the inside of the garage act as airspace or does the insulation?
I had a shed delivered to use as a hobby shop and plan on climate controlling it, so I was going to install batt insulation. I told the shed guys this and they talked me into getting the silver treatment, which is the radiant barrier OSB roof and wall sheathing. But when I went in the shed, printed on the silver side it says “for open wall use only.” Is there a way to add batt insulation with this?
I want to put a radiant barrier in my home’s attic. I plan to staple it to the underside of the attic rafters. Is that a good way to proceed? Also, I have seen materials with bubble insulation between foil faces and I have seen radiant material that is perforated with small holes, apparently for ventilation. Do either of these materials provide a specific additional benefit or is a solid foil material best or equally good?
Hi I’m in Corpus Christi, Texas. Is it okay to fasten non-perforated radiant barrier to the bottom of the rafters inside an attic? The problem is I ran short on my initial order of perforated radiant barrier and they sent non perforated radiant barrier instead. I have completed approximately 2/3 of the project and I have 1/3 left to do. Any input is appreciated.
Hello, I am speaking with two suppliers of two different radiant barriers. I am learning from them that it meets the CA acceptable cool roof alternative for compliance with both the prescriptive and performance methods for energy compliance as described in ES 150.2(b)1H. Energy Standards 150.2(b)H1 (prescriptive)and Table 150.2-B (performance).
My concern is they tell me I can install this product on a roof deck without a 3/4 or 1″ air gap between the deck, vapor barrier and roofing material, meaning direct contact between deck and roofing materials. I have learned in the past that radiant barriers need an air gap of at least 3/4″ of an inch to perform.
I am estimating on three different residential buildings to show the local building departments that these products can work to allow an alternative other than the more costly alternatives here in zones 11 & 12 CA.
Can you possibly supply me with a correct approach or any info possible to do this approval process?