I had an energy company come by the home and look at my energy efficiency. They suggest what would help me the most would be to put a radiant barrier on my underside of roof. The cost was a lot to me. I am a guy who likes to do my own work. Is this something I could do myself and is there a training video or things I could read to help me install it as it should be to be most effective?
I’m an architect, but new to the applied reflective coatings. I have a residential attic with wood trusses to insulate. I was considering fiberglass batts with foil face or blown in fiberglass with a reflective coated deck. What would you recommend (specific products & manufacturer) and what coating is the best and/or most cost effective? Someone recommended the Heatbloc-ultra .68/sf installed.
We have a metal building horse barn. The birds have destroyed the interior roof insulation. Will any coating replace this insulation? New foil or insulation board will most likely be torn apart. This is a common agricultural problem, and foam, new insulation board, fiberglass, etc. are just not solutions. Would any coating work, at least somewhat?
In an existing house is it better to install a barrier between the rafters or on the floor over the insulation? It is loose insulation not batts.
I went to a home show and a company called (XXXX) claimed that by applying their product to the interior of my existing attic, I can save 30% on my gas heating bill. They are charging $4,000.00 to do this installation. My house is a colonial, about 1,400 square feet. Does this sound right?
How can a homeowner find out what is truly the best way to insulate their home? Everyone claims that their product is the best and I don’t know who to believe.
I am a residential energy auditor and we are having to answer customer questions – unfortunately after the installation in question has already been done – about how radiant barriers work and how radiant barriers should be installed. My general comment to customers has been that in our area – Seattle, Washington – our temperatures do not get hot enough, often or long enough for a radiant barrier to be very effective. Is my assessment correct or do I need to re-think this a bit?
Seattle, Washington area – how effective are radiant barriers when applied directly over existing fiberglass insulation? I understand that for radiant barriers to work, the surface must face an open-air space. In this application, one surface faces the attic cavity- an open-air space. The underside however, is resting on the fiberglass insulation with no open-air space. Does your research support this practice?
I live in zone 9 (South Louisiana). Can you tell me what radiant barrier or reflective insulation I would benefit from? It would be installed in an existing attic space that houses my A/C ducts. I’m confused and would appreciate clarification if possible. It is my understanding per the Department of Energy “reflective insulation and barriers must have air space adjacent to the reflective material to be effective.” Per Reflectix (sold at Home Depot and Lowes), I should staple the reflective insulation directly to my roofing deck.
The thermal coating on the underside of my attic roof is rated at 0.147 transmissivity or conversely, 84.3% reflectivity. Reflective sheeting is rated at 97%, but it will degrade as dust collects on its surface. If reflective sheeting were put directly on the underside of attic roofing OSB, would it be as effective as Lo/Mit-II Max ? What is the best long-term solution here in Phoenix, AZ?