I have a 2×4 rafter construction home in Northern Wisconsin. I have heat loss through the ceiling. I can see snow melts and frost melts showing every rafter and spots in-between the rafters are bare from frost in fall and spring and snow loss in the winter. On the slanted part of the upstairs, there is fiberglass insulation probably 3 inches, then sheet rock. What is the best solution to reinsulate the slanted ceiling to gain a bit more insulation without losing too much head room?
I have a walk-up attic here in Southern NY. I also have 2 air handler units in the attic that provide both A/C and Heating. I was thinking of enclosing the entire attic with JM’s – CI Max 4″ Polyiso rigid board. It is foil faced on both sides. I was going to foam and tape all seams. The roof joists are 2×10 and would be the chase for my soffit vents venting up to the ridge vent in my roofing. Since the attic will be an essentially sealed space, should I remove the attic floor insulation or can I leave it? The board has an R-24 / 26 rating. Do you see anything wrong with this plan?
Hello, I have heard that commercial radiant barrier sprays (used primarily in residential applications to reduce the sun’s radiant heat in the attic) were originally developed by the U.S. military to protect military vehicles from heat-seeking missiles. Is this accurate? Plausible?
Using the manual J load calculations, how would the AC load be affected by adding a radiant barrier under my roof deck in a 1-1/2 story home? Where can I view this calculation method? I understand over the past few years the use of a radiant barrier was included in these calculations. What are the specifics of how this impacts the calculation? I am trying to evaluate the use of a radiant barrier. Is it off setting some AC equipment cost?
In new home construction, can a radiant barrier (foil adhered directly to roofing underlayment material) be used in conjunction with Icynene foam insulation? Can the foam be sprayed onto the surface of the foil coated underlayment material? If yes to the above two questions, then do you recommend closed-cell or open-cell foam?
I just had a presentation from Smart Energy Today. They told us reflective sheets in a crawl space will improve home efficiency. I got a link to your website from DOE. I have already determined I need to seal the crawl space ducts. After that, does the reflective sheet stapled to the floor joists make sense?
Good evening, we are producers of reflective insulations, we are interested to know the best method to certify our reflective insulations. We know the normative EN 16012, but we know also that in France there is another method of certification. Can you give me some information about that method? We would comprehend which method is the best to show the properties/performance of insulation of the reflective insulations.
I will shortly be constructing a building that I would like to use radiant barrier to reflect some of the South Texas heat from the interior of this building. I am also considering using some of the radiant barrier in conjunction with 1/2″ plywood sheets that have hardened wooden surfaces for the walls of this structure. Should the radiant barrier be placed directly on this plywood or should it be first attached to the wooden studs and then the plywood sheets be placed on top of it?
If I install this material with the white side facing the airspace between it and the metal sheathing (on the walls and ceiling), will it still be an effective radiant barrier?
Does adding a second radiant barrier in the roof improve ROI?