For conversion to a non-ventilated crawlspace, what is the proper installation methodology? What R-Value is added by installing on the cinderblock walls? Should the current fiberglass batt insulation installed under the floor be removed?
We had a metal pole barn built. After the barn was framed, single bubble foil insulation was installed around the entire frame and then the metal was installed on top of the foil insulation. We are finishing the interior of the building (concrete floor, electric, heat/AC). We have finished framing with 2×4’s and now plan on insulating and finishing off the interior. We live in the Midwest. We plan to use 3 1/2″ batt insulation in the framing (that will leave several inches between the bubble foil and the fiberglass) and then finish off with drywall. We are also drywalling the ceiling. We do not have any vents in the building (30×60) so we plan to put one gable vent on each end to allow the barn to breathe. We may want to put some loose insulation in the attic. Does it sound like we are doing everything correctly? Any suggestions?
I need to know the efficacy of radiant barrier installed on flat concrete roof tops?
I am trying to determine if it is better to use 2″ foam board or a combination of 1″ foam board and double bubble radiant barrier under my new concrete garage floor when using a hydronic radiant heat system. I live in PA.
I have continuous air soffit board running the entire length of my roof. The problem is when I’m up in my attic, it appears a lot of the blown in insulation and insulation bats coming up through the walls have blocked airflow into my attic. I can only see light coming through about 20% of the rafters, which probably means a lot of the ventilation has been blocked. I have a very cramped and complex attic, which would make it very difficult to clear all the insulation to get unrestricted airflow. How important is it to have outside air at the bottom of my rafters?
I live in El Paso, TX (high radiation) and would like to know what I can do in order to decrease heat transfer from the roof and one side wall.
A representative of an installation company claims that national building codes will require the use of reflective insulation technology in all new construction beginning in 2015. Is this true?
How long does it take a layer of R-30 fiberglass (or cellulose) insulation to become saturated with heat so that it begins transferring the heat?
I would like to insulate my steel barn roof. Would it be okay to cover the joists completely or is it better to go between them?
I had an energy company come by the home and look at my energy efficiency. They suggest what would help me the most would be to put a radiant barrier on my underside of roof. The cost was a lot to me. I am a guy who likes to do my own work. Is this something I could do myself and is there a training video or things I could read to help me install it as it should be to be most effective?
I’m an architect, but new to the applied reflective coatings. I have a residential attic with wood trusses to insulate. I was considering fiberglass batts with foil face or blown in fiberglass with a reflective coated deck. What would you recommend (specific products & manufacturer) and what coating is the best and/or most cost effective? Someone recommended the Heatbloc-ultra .68/sf installed.
We have a metal building horse barn. The birds have destroyed the interior roof insulation. Will any coating replace this insulation? New foil or insulation board will most likely be torn apart. This is a common agricultural problem, and foam, new insulation board, fiberglass, etc. are just not solutions. Would any coating work, at least somewhat?
In an existing house is it better to install a barrier between the rafters or on the floor over the insulation? It is loose insulation not batts.
I went to a home show and a company called (XXXX) claimed that by applying their product to the interior of my existing attic, I can save 30% on my gas heating bill. They are charging $4,000.00 to do this installation. My house is a colonial, about 1,400 square feet. Does this sound right?
How can a homeowner find out what is truly the best way to insulate their home? Everyone claims that their product is the best and I don’t know who to believe.
I am a residential energy auditor and we are having to answer customer questions – unfortunately after the installation in question has already been done – about how radiant barriers work and how radiant barriers should be installed. My general comment to customers has been that in our area – Seattle, Washington – our temperatures do not get hot enough, often or long enough for a radiant barrier to be very effective. Is my assessment correct or do I need to re-think this a bit?
Seattle, Washington area – how effective are radiant barriers when applied directly over existing fiberglass insulation? I understand that for radiant barriers to work, the surface must face an open-air space. In this application, one surface faces the attic cavity- an open-air space. The underside however, is resting on the fiberglass insulation with no open-air space. Does your research support this practice?
I live in zone 9 (South Louisiana). Can you tell me what radiant barrier or reflective insulation I would benefit from? It would be installed in an existing attic space that houses my A/C ducts. I’m confused and would appreciate clarification if possible. It is my understanding per the Department of Energy “reflective insulation and barriers must have air space adjacent to the reflective material to be effective.” Per Reflectix (sold at Home Depot and Lowes), I should staple the reflective insulation directly to my roofing deck.
The thermal coating on the underside of my attic roof is rated at 0.147 transmissivity or conversely, 84.3% reflectivity. Reflective sheeting is rated at 97%, but it will degrade as dust collects on its surface. If reflective sheeting were put directly on the underside of attic roofing OSB, would it be as effective as Lo/Mit-II Max ? What is the best long-term solution here in Phoenix, AZ?
Is a reflective barrier with perforations advisable for use laying over the top of other attic insulation as an upgrade?