I have 8, 4ft x 7 ft windows in my passive solar house. I want to use a radiant barrier in a blind to reduce the heat loss from each window on winter nights. What is the optimum spacing between the inner side of the double panned window glass and a double-sided reflective membrane? What is the optimum spacing between the first sheet and a second reflective membrane? What is the best reflective, (on both sides), material to use for this purpose? I recall a membrane called “mylar” years ago. What is the incremental benefit from a second membrane? What is the incremental benefit from a third membrane? I prefer “occupant comfort” to energy conservation, both would be best. Given that thermal comfort is a function of the difference between heat radiated by the body, and radiant heat received by the body, would a high emissivity coating be better on the interior surface than a shiny, low emissivity surface? Are you aware of any manufacturers of blinds like that described above?
For conversion to a non-ventilated crawlspace, what is the proper installation methodology? What R-Value is added by installing on the cinderblock walls? Should the current fiberglass batt insulation installed under the floor be removed?
We had a metal pole barn built. After the barn was framed, single bubble foil insulation was installed around the entire frame and then the metal was installed on top of the foil insulation. We are finishing the interior of the building (concrete floor, electric, heat/AC). We have finished framing with 2×4’s and now plan on insulating and finishing off the interior. We live in the Midwest. We plan to use 3 1/2″ batt insulation in the framing (that will leave several inches between the bubble foil and the fiberglass) and then finish off with drywall. We are also drywalling the ceiling. We do not have any vents in the building (30×60) so we plan to put one gable vent on each end to allow the barn to breathe. We may want to put some loose insulation in the attic. Does it sound like we are doing everything correctly? Any suggestions?
I need to know the efficacy of radiant barrier installed on flat concrete roof tops?
I am trying to determine if it is better to use 2″ foam board or a combination of 1″ foam board and double bubble radiant barrier under my new concrete garage floor when using a hydronic radiant heat system. I live in PA.
I have continuous air soffit board running the entire length of my roof. The problem is when I’m up in my attic, it appears a lot of the blown in insulation and insulation bats coming up through the walls have blocked airflow into my attic. I can only see light coming through about 20% of the rafters, which probably means a lot of the ventilation has been blocked. I have a very cramped and complex attic, which would make it very difficult to clear all the insulation to get unrestricted airflow. How important is it to have outside air at the bottom of my rafters?
I live in El Paso, TX (high radiation) and would like to know what I can do in order to decrease heat transfer from the roof and one side wall.
A representative of an installation company claims that national building codes will require the use of reflective insulation technology in all new construction beginning in 2015. Is this true?
How long does it take a layer of R-30 fiberglass (or cellulose) insulation to become saturated with heat so that it begins transferring the heat?
I would like to insulate my steel barn roof. Would it be okay to cover the joists completely or is it better to go between them?